Aruba, Jamaica, Bermuda, Bahamas, Key Largo, Montego… uhhh Cartagena??? Really?
There’s a reason why the Beach Boys didn’t see fit to name-check Colombia’s most prominent Caribbean city. There aren’t any all-inclusives here where you can while away your honeymoon in secluded bliss. There are no white sand beaches or drinking piña coladas out of coconuts in a shady hammock. What there is is an rich colonial history, incredible vibrant street life, and the ability to book an amazing Caribbean vacation on a very modest budget.
It could be that you’ve done a few islands and are looking for something new. You might want to explore all of Colombia or other points in South America. Maybe you’d like to double back and hit Central America or Mexico on the way back to the US. Whatever the direction of your itinerary or the length of your trip, a stop in Cartagena can make a whole lot of sense.
Getting to Cartagena
Flying to Cartagena from the US is incredibly easy and very economical. The travel time from Miami or Fort Lauderdale is 3 hours, and the clock is turned back one hour during the trip. Flights from South Florida on Avianca typically price out around $65 each way for the most basic fare. If you’re just going down for about 3 days with some shorts and T-shirts in a backpack you might be able to pull off this bargain fare. Taking a real carry-on bag bumps you to the next higher fare class (S on Avianca or Light on Latam) for around $150 each way.
If you’re not in South Florida it’s pretty easy to build your own connection from the best and cheapest domestic flights or use Skyscanner’s search tools to generate the best/cheapest route combinations from your city. From most cities in the US you’re looking at around $400 to get there and back with carry-on bags. Of course, if you want to hang out in Miami for a couple nights as well that doesn’t cost you any more in airfare. If you only have a week to work with spending four nights in Cartagena and 3 in Miami is not too shabby as far as plans go.
Arriving in Cartagena
Immigration and customs is a breeze. Barely worth mentioning. You just hand them your passport and they stamp it. You won’t even need any Spanish to pass the checkpoint. Unfortunately this is the last breeze you’ll feel. Cartagena is hot!
A lot of bloggers will advise you not to change money in the airport because the rates might be a bit higher. This is bad advice. Go ahead and change $50 or $100 as soon as you land because ATM’s are not entirely common in Cartagena and the cash exchange shops all close at night, so if you’re landing in the evening you might find yourself wanting some walking around money even though most places do take credit cards.
Uber is technically illegal in Colombia but it’s also very popular. It costs less than a cab but neither of them is expensive. You can just step right outside the arrivals and get an Uber directly where the cabs are lined up. Ten or 15 minutes to the hotel. Easy peasy. Most Uber rides are $2.50-$3.00 USD.
Where to Stay in Cartagena
There are four main areas where tourists stay in Cartagena. You should definitely stick to one of these areas. There are a few hotels outside these areas but staying in the Walled City or Bocagrande is really making things easy on yourself. No matter where you stay you’re going to be relying on Uber daily to move between zones. While you can walk within each zone easily, it is a chore and somewhat unpleasant to walk from one to another. The exception being walking from the Walled City to Getsemani. That’s easy to do. Those areas are similar enough that you could consider them one and the same. You can walk from Marbella to the Old City and Getsemani, but after you go around those areas on foot for a while you’ll probably want an Uber to get back.
SEARCH THE MAP: Find Rates in the perfect location at Hotels.com
Going from the Walled City to Bocagrande on foot is not advisable. It involves walking along highway-like roads across a military base. The lighter blue area above is the heart of Bocagrande, so to get from there to the Walled City is a considerable distance.
The Walled City
Staying in Cartagena’s Walled City is very much like staying in the French Quarter or Old San Juan in Puerto Rico. It’s charming and historic and most of your better hotels will be located here. The drawbacks are that it is the most expensive area and there’s no beach frontage in the area, just seawalls and the like. You’re also open to being approached by street hawkers every time you step outside your hotel. They’ll offer you everything from carriage rides to cocaine.
While it is the most expensive area, you can still find properties on the map in the range of $130-140 per night. More than you might pay elsewhere but still very reasonable by US standards. check out the Urban Royal, the Alfiz Boutique, the Don Pedro De Heredia, or the Casa La Fe if you’re in that price range.
Getsemani
This area has a reputation as something of a “backpacker’s paradise.” I’m not sure if that’s entirely accurate but there are a number of hostels and bars here. A few of the narrow streets are entirely given over to drinking, becoming sort of linear beer gardens. If you’re the sort of traveler who values local culture over proximity to the beach this area is definitely worth your consideration.
The Rocco Hotel, the La Artillería, the Santa Cecilia, and the Soy Local Insignia all come in at under $100 even on short notice bookings. These will all put you squarely in the center of a lot of delicious food and street life without the hustlers and working girls of the Old City being right outside your door at all times.
Bocagrande
I didn’t stay in Bocagrande because I imagined it might be very similar to Kuta Beach in Bali. The beach itself is that way, with locals disturbing you constantly and pushing you to buy what they’re selling. But the town is actually quite laid back once you get one block inland. It’s got more of a city vibe than a beach town feeling. You’ll appreciate being an easy walk to groceries, liquor stores, ATM’s, restaurants and anything else you might want.
Hotels here start around $50 a night but the reviews are sort of a mixed bag. Walking around and looking from the outside, the hotels here all appear to be fine and capable of delivering $50 in value easily. So it’s kind of a roll of the dice if the thing that’s missing is something you absolutely must have. Paying a little more will probably reward you with commensurate higher quality. The Hotel Blue Concept and the Rilux are both particularly well-located. They’re right next to each other in the heart of the beach. They’ve got everything you might want right outside. The Hotel Virrey is a solid option at around $80 per night and the Hotel Coral Reef is a bargain at around $60. Most visitors should enjoy these locations with no issues.
Marbella Beach
Both the area and the beach at Marbella are a lot quieter and lower-key than in Bocagrande. While the beach is not the best in the world, it is better than Bocagrande. The only disadvantage to staying in Marbella is a reduced choice of restaurants. The availability of good coffee in the morning could also stand some improvement. You can’t just walk to the Juan Valdez Cafe the way you can in Bocagrande.
I stayed at the Ibis on the beach front for around $60 a night and enjoyed it. My full review is posted here. If you are interested in Marbella I wouldn’t suggest staying much further north than the Ibis. Check out the Castillo Ines Maria, the Bustamante Hotel, or the Isla Capri for the best locations in Marbella.
What to Do and How Long to Stay?
No matter where you stay in Cartagena you will want to make an effort to move around the city and see each of the above four areas for yourself. There are a few museums in the Walled City and some of them are free to check out. Some visitors will want to make a point to visit the home of Gabriel Garcia Marquez, which is at the corner of Carrera 2 and Calle del Curato de Santo Toribio at the north end of the Walled City with a view of the sea. The home is in private hands now and is not an attraction. It’s not even marked and unfortunately there is not a museum dedicated to Marquez in Cartagena.
If you are a particular fan of the writer you might consider a stay at the Makondo Boutique Hotel right next to the author’s house, which is still owned and operated by the Marquez family. You’ll want to book well in advance and search availability carefully though. This is a small hotel and in very high demand. The locals say that Shakira owns the home next door to Marquez’ compound, although that may just be something they tell tourists. Who knows?
Cartagena is a great place to see and spend a weekend. But ultimately it is a city that can be fully enjoyed in about 3-4 days. If you’re planning your visit for longer than that you’ll definitely want to either arrange to see one or more of the islands around Cartagena, or get a car and explore along the coast to Barranquilla, Santa Marta, and the various parks, lakes, mountains and beaches in the region. Or get a quick flight and spend a few nights in Medellin. You won’t regret it.
